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Il
Pecorino
As elsewhere, the habit of raising sheep and of making
cheese has the most ancient origin in the Marches. (This is the
consequence of the poor peasant tradition according to which even he who
did not owe land could afford a sheep. Going over others' pastures was
officially accepted.)
Pecorino marchigiano (sheep cheese of Le Marches) was appreciated already in
the ducal epoch and acknowledged as exceptionally delicious food. Today,
it has become prestigious basic element in the local gastronomy (often PDO
classified, as it happens with Casciotta
di Urbino).
The
great variety of different microclimates of the region and the diversity
of its flora is concentrated in this product. Actually, each locality has
its own quality of "pecorino", distinguished from others by
procedures of preparation and ripening that, associated to the fodder
eaten by sheep, result in a wide range of aromas.
In
respect of the old recipes mastered by specific family traditions,
pecorino made in the provinces of Pesaro,
Ancona and Macerata - once
salted - is scalded with whey in order to obtain colour and to postpone
the ripening.
(The same is done, for example, with "caciotta" in Montefeltro. It can be wrapped in nut leaves or immersed in wine
and ripened in amphora.) Excellent cheese made on the Mounts Sibillini called "caglio" is prepared with a series
of aromatic herbs (serene sky without wind and with waning moon is
considered a good omen). The result is a particular, very tasty pecorino
with compact white mass (typical for the territory of Amandola, Comunanza, Sarnano, Ussita and Visso).
In
order to maintain its butter-like consistency, pecorino produced in Borgo
Pace, after partial ripening, is kept in cold in old barrels, where it
creates a light film of mould on its surface. This slows its ripening and
adds exceptional flavour to cheese. On the other hand, olive oil is
periodically spread on the surface of pecorino from Monte
Rinaldo during its long
ripening. This procedure colours the crust and renders it hard.
Formaggio di Fossa (known also as Ambra di Talamello,
named after the locality of its origin in Valmarecchia)
is a delicious pecorino ripened among the leaves of nuts in the dark
caverns of tuff. Three months later, irregular forms characterised by
traces of mould and superficial cracks are extracted.
The mass is light-coloured, friable and odorous, while the taste is
piquant and slightly bitter. Limited quantities with distinctive taste
produced in strict respect of an old local tradition make Formaggio di
Fossa be requested cheese of exceptional quality.
The
tradition of making cheese in this region includes an ancient game called la
ruzzola. Once, ripened wheels of pecorino would roll through winding
streets of the countryside. Although today cheese is preferably exposed on
a kitchen table and left at disposal, the game "la ruzzola"
is still played - with equally good wooden wheels. Therefore, while
walking through the quiet streets that go up the hills, teams of players
engaged in real tournaments are often met. And more than often, the
tournament has its pleasant finish in a tavern, with - possibly - a good
slice of cheese and a glass of excellent wine.
© 2001
Liberation Ventures Ltd.
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