This bustling city is the main gateway to the area both by plane and ferry, giving the place the atmosphere of a Mediterranean frontier.

The influence of the East is also evident in some of its earliest architectural attractions - don’t miss the Cathedral of San Ciriaco, on the hill above the port - parts of the Byzantine mosaic floor of the original 6th century church can still be seen.

From the port, head eastwards through the city to the coast road, and pick up the signs for Monte Conero. The road soon begins to rise and within a short while leaves the city suburbs to arrive at the slopes of Monte Conero. After a few more kilometres the mountain’s solitary limestone peak comes into view. At 572 metres, this is the highest point along this stretch of the Adriatic coast and offers some spectacular views.

Ancona, with its cordial inhabitants, is a merchant city giving onto the eastern coast and offers a splendid visual impact with San Ciriaco Cathedral. Touring the old easy since its monuments are all concentrate in the space of a few hundred metres: for example, the Merchant’s Lodge, the Church of Santa Maria della Piazza, Traian’ s Arch, the Cathedral, Piazza del Plebiscito, the National Archaeological Museum and the Podesti Art Gallery.

There is a marvellous view of the city and above all of the Lazzaretto Vanvitelliano from the Cittadella Park.

A short detour takes you down to the beach resort of Portonovo and the early Romanesque Church of Santa Maria. Built between 1034 and 1048, its curious form is unique in Italy and looks as if it might be more at home in Normandy.

Back on the main road, after eight kilometres, another left turn takes you on a second detour up to the highest point on the mountain reachable by car, and worth the trip just for the views.

Here you’ll find the Badia di San Pietro, built in the 12thC as a Benedictine Hermitage and now a hotel. The area is also a regional nature park and a web of signed footpaths cover the peak.

On the summit, traces of a Palaeolithic settlement dating back 100,000 years have been discovered - the earliest signs of human presence in the region.

Returning to the main road, we now head down to the southern flanks of Conero to visit Sirolo.

Its balcony piazza, flanked on two sides by a spruce medieval centre, teeters high above the sea, offering magnificent views.

Its sister resort, Numana, lies further down the slope, at beach level. The port dates back as far as the 8th century BC - various bronzes and pieces of pottery found in the area can be seen in the Antiquarium in via La Fenice, in the centre of the old town. Both resorts have a wide range of hotels and campsites by the beach.

Leaving the coast behind we now travel inland to visit four important hill towns which lie only a few kilometres away - follow the signs for Osimo.